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The Emerald Isle: The Middle


WICKLOW MOUTAINS AND GLENDALOUGH
After our first initial stay in Dublin, we ventured south en route to our vacation rental which was near Cork. I wanted to see Glendalough Valley and the monastic ruins that have been there since the 6th century. We got our first initial taste of “white knuckle” driving that everyone warned us about. Skinny, one lane roads with either old stone walls bordering each side of the road or overgrown, green foliage…it was a bit insane. Not to mention, the mountain passes were curvy and unforgiving. One local told us that to put the speed sign of 100k right before a bend was like the road was coaxing you, daring you to drive that fast.
Many one lane bridges

Ireland roads


Glendalough was beautiful with historic and old ruins, two beautiful lakes, and expansive hiking trails. Old, Celtic cross tombstones and tight fitting graves dotted the landscape next to the monastery and tower. We saw our first deer here, so we high-fived at spotting wildlife other than ravens, pigeons, and magpies.
Yummy butterscotch ice cream treat

Cascading waterfall




























Our GPS, which we lovingly named Emily (and if you have seen Friends, you will understand why), took us on a route out of the Wicklow Mountains on backroads that crossed over high mountain pass that was vast with rolling hills, farmland, and trees. It was beautiful!


CORK-MALLOW
The 20th of June we arrived at our vacation rental outside Castletownroche, a small village near Mallow and Cork. Centrally located, we were immediately enchanted by this magical place. It was built in the 1800s and was refurbished in the 1990s. The property was taken back by the state because the land owners could not pay the taxes they owed, and now it was a vacation rental. The castle is located on a large acreage that houses a huge Victorian house, with servant quarters and stables, and a hidden secret garden that was free for us to explore. It was perfect! It was my favorite place the entire trip. J We had no TV or Wi-Fi which made this place even more spectacular. We played Scrabble by firelight and enjoyed the Irish radio where we searched out traditional Irish music over the electric and dance, or constant talk, we seemed to only get via the other stations.

Rhody's in the back left---old house on the Annes Grove Garden Estates

My new favorite flowers: alliums


So Brad and I bought this estate while in Ireland...








Gate to the secret garden




Patio for two

Private cemetary


Roses

Trellis

Vacation Rental View


Property we got to explore


Being centrally located, we split up our days to explore the surrounding areas.

BLARNEY CASTLE AND CORK
Of course we had to visit the Blarney Castle, kiss the Blarney Stone, and enjoy the grounds, trails, and geocache on the grounds. We were smart enough to get up early and beat the large tourist buses, by being at each tourist destination before 10.




Kissing the stone

Kissing the stone

Blarney Castle grounds


View from below-where you kiss the stone

Bamboo Tunnel








Oh, the signs make me smile


We enjoyed the Midleton Jameson Factory Tour, which was where Jameson was originally distilled before moving to Dublin. The tour was excellent and free drinks at the end were a great way to comesmerate Father’s Day.

Our first Irish coffee



Then, we enjoyed walking around Cork, shopping, and watching a local band play (The Big Mikies) at a pub, Oliver Plunket’s. We also were introduced to hurling…violent, insane sport!




RING OF KERRY
We did the Ring of Kerry, listening to Emily who took us on one-laned short cuts near breathtaking cliffs and roads to get there. We stopped occasionally on the way to take in the views, and let crazy tour buses inch around us, that were just amazing. At the top of Coomakesta Pass, we spoke with an Irish artisan whose dog was a hoot. He said his dog, Snoopy, was leaning up against me because he had one too many Guinesses last night. He’s recovering.” We bought one of his homemade St. Brigid crosses, one of the patron saints of Ireland. Hang the cross in your home to protect you from fire and want.
Artisan 






Colorful Pub





Windy roads of Kerry








Kerry Cliffs

















Ring fort


















Coomakesta Pass, Kerry 



St. Brigid Cross
























Foxglove
View from ring fort



We continued to Portmagee, onto Valencia Island. Checked out Kerry Cliffs and hiked Bray Head Loop, which was where we left our travel bug on a geocache. This route was recommended to us by another artisan atop Coomakesta Pass, and it was worth it.

Dingle Peninsula and Portmagee/Valentia Island views



Talking to Maddy

Along the trail


Old stone wall


Gates

Bray Head Loop Trail

Retrieving our geocache


New York is 5000 K from this point

Kerry Peninsula







That night we loved sitting in a quiet, quaint pub in Castletownroche, listening to an older couple converse. I don’t know how long they had been married, but they were a  hoot and deeply devote and in love. I loved overhearing their conversations with one another.

Watching a crime show on TV, the old man was in awe that they would show the actually crimes and his wife promptly interjected stating is was reenactments and not real. “They do reenactments to find the blokes that did that to her.”

Another conversation was complimenting the reporter, Wife: “She’s quite a lovely figure." Husband: “Yes, such a lovely smile.”

Husband: “What  type of drinks are those?”
Wife:“Irish coffees.”
Husband:“Didn’t they just have Guiness?”
Wife: “Yes, now they’re having coffees.”
Husband: “I think I’ll have one of those, then.”
Wife: “Not if you’re to get me home!”

They were also very pleased with the bartender stepping out to care for her elderly grandma, by putting her to bed. Made me smile as I hope Brad and I will be as sweet, in love, and comical as the two of them.

DINGLE

We intended to drive the entire Dingle Peninsula but only made it to Dingle, a small coastal village and one of the first places we managed to go shopping. Unfortunately, there had been a mix up with our reservations at the vacation rental, originally thinking we had the place until Wednesday morning, so we ended up cutting our trip there short.


Church 


Build around it


view from the harbor



Grottos were everywhere

HIlly streets of Dingle






Sheepdog on a mule

Statues depicting religion were every where, too. 

Stain glass in the churches were amazing


Loved the colorful houses

Wool shop window




We did stop in Mallow en route to finding a place to stay for the night and met a great pub owner, Andrew, who was A) Irish-American and B) picked up on Brad’s New York accent right away, even though he hasn’t lived there in over 13 years. He was great to talk to as we chatted about family ties to the states and in Ireland, history of Ireland, and tips on what to check out while in Mallow. We checked out Mallow Castle ruins, that are apparently in the process of being somewhat restored to attract more visitors to the area. We also had a chance to check out the gift(s) from Queen Elizabeth I, white deer, and quite a herd of them still reside on the property some 500 years later.


White deer



Mallow Castle Ruins




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